Farewell to India

After thirteen months in the forests of southwestern Odisha, through the bustling streets of Delhi, across the Himalaya of Sikkim and down the backwater lanes of Kerala, it’s time to come home. An edited anthology of India Travel Writing:

Delhi
The Bookseller of Khan Market
The Hexagram of Humayun
Lakhs and Crores

Journey to the Taj Mahal
Departing Delhi
On Mathura Road
The Taj Mahal

Life in Odisha
Oriya: Language of Imagination
The Monkey Incident
Sandlot Cricket
After the Catch
Ten Things I Love About Odisha
A Tuque in India
Buffalo Time
Chilika Lake

Food
Dhalafel
What’s in Your Tiffin?
The National Egg Coordination Committee
Friday Night, Egg Roll Night

Elsewhere in India
Breakfast in Ghorkaland
Fat Monkey Screams in Darjeeling
The Virgin Mary’s Getaway Motorcycle
Himalaya Redux
Tibetan Monastery of Chandragiri
Shrine of Dantolingi
The Saora Tribe of Gajapati

Miscellaneous
The Barefoot Guide to Indian Football
The Indian Waggle

Book Reviews
The Last Mughal, by William Dalrymple
A New History of India, by Stanley Wolpert
Inhaling the Mahatma, by Christopher Kremmer
Midnight’s Children, by Salman Rushdie
Between the Assassinations, by Aravind Adiga
The Primal Land, by Pratibha Ray
Oriya Literature in Translation

Photography
Odisha: Spirit of India
Sikkim Himalaya
The Taj Mahal
Humayun’s Tomb
The Erotic Temple
In an Indian Kitchen

Change Islands, Newfoundland

From the confluence of history and myth this remote place draws its name: the earliest inhabitants lived on the North Island during the summer months—in shacks closer to the inshore fishing and squid-jigging grounds—and on the South Island during the winter months—in homes protected from the bitter Arctic winds. Thus, twice per year they would change islands.

Men whose fathers had fished came here to fish; the hamlet of Change Islands was one of the most important outports of the nineteenth- and early twentieth-century Newfoundland fishery, whose annual spring thaw sent sailors “down on the Labrador” to pull cod from the waters all summer long.

Continue reading “Change Islands, Newfoundland”

Mount Rainier: (Almost) a Circumambulation

Journey:
The 150-km Wonderland Trail circumnavigating Mount Rainier, plus 15km (round trip) ascent to Alpiners’ base at Camp Muir (10,080 ft / 3073 m)

Epoch:
July-August 2008

Camera:
Holga 120N Medium Format, f/8 Holga 60mm fixed lens at 1/100-second shutter

Film:
Fuji Neopan Acros Pro 120 ISO 400 Black & White, shot at 6×6, processed C-41.

Ratio of marmots observed to marmots observed to be elite Greco-Roman wrestlers:
43:2

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